I’ll tell you all about my visit at Dragonfly Books in Decorah, but first I want to tell you how I got there.
I don’t think you’ve really travelled on a straight American road until you’ve been on a road in Iowa in May, before the corn takes over. Everything is flat. The road you’re on is flat, the earth is flat, and every now and then it’s interrupted by a intersecting road. Also straight. It’s as if someone had taken a ruler and just drawn it all up; planned, organized, nothing in the land that requers detours or turns. I imagine that’s precisely what happened.
I was picked up outside of the TV station in Des Moines by Daniel of Hometown Taxi. It’s based in Decorah, and he was certainly more comfortable there than in the big city of Des Moines. I was standing outside waiting, twenty minutes before the scheduled time, and it had just begun to seem very likely that I would be waiting in the rain, when the Hometown taxi pulled up.
“You wouldn’t by any chance happen to be Mary, would you? Miss Bivald?”
I am Mary: it’s my middle name, but since it appears first on my passport, it’s the name used for most of the bookings during my trip. A side-note: for several drafts, right up until I got a publisher, Sara was called Mary. But the sales/marketing/pr-department of my publisher put their foot down firmly on this one: “We can work with the strange title, and somehow manage to get people to know that this American novel is written by a Swedish writer, but we can’t have an American novel written by a Swedish writer with a main character with a Brittish name.” It did sound reasonable, when they put it like that.
Anyway, I was Mary, and we were off to a good start, managing to get out on the right Interstate and so forth. Daniel is not a modern technology-kind of person. He has a smartphone, but he got it reluctantly three weeks ago because he’s partners at the taxi company insisted. He can call on it, he has just figured out how to text people; a few days ago he had even taken a photo with it! “But then I didn’t know how to send it.” He looked at me, with phone in hand. “But you seem to have mastered them things?”
Naturally, he did not have a GPS. He had the adress written down in a clear, precise hand on small notes that he seemed to carry with him everywhere. But we got on Highway 35 in a couple of hours, straight ahead, and then we turned sharply onto Highway 9, also straight ahead, until eventually we arrived in Decorah, Iowa.
Decorah is nothing like Broken Wheel, except that the people are as friendly. Daniel showed me all the places in town, including the college, the two (!) microbreweries, the place where his father proposed to his mother and the three biggest streets in the town: Broadway, lined by trees and impressive Victorian homes owned by retired doctors and lawyers. And Main Street, the non-main street in town, lined by trees and slightly smaller homes. And Water street, the main street: “Water street is our main street”, said Daniel. “Well, there is a Main street as well, but that’s not the…” – “Main street?” said I. – “Eh, no”.
Naturally, he also showed me the bookshop, which is pretty much all I need to know, and a coffee place that had suprisingly good coffee.
I don’t want to insult anyone, but american coffee is sometimes something of an oxymoron. If they had called it lightly coffee flavoured tea it would have been closer to the truth. I am normally a very polite, generous person, but lack of coffee does not bring out the best of me.
Then again, great coffee apparantly bring out slightly worrying sides of me as well. And the coffee in Decorah was amazing. Everytime I stand in line I debate the age-old question: Americano or regular drip coffee? I prefer drip coffee, but the likelihood of a disaster is greater than with an Americano. Still, I decided to be brave. A tried the drip coffee. I added milk. I noticed the coffee colour was still a dark brown, almost black, and the smell! Tentitavely I tried it. Coffee! Real coffee!
I had to double back with my take away cup to the man behind the counter. “Excuse me!” I said, slightly manical. I think I might have interrupted the three ladies waiting in line. “Your coffee is great! Amazing!” I then proceeded to empty my pockets of all the coins I could find, into the tip jar. The ladies looked slightly nervous as I gave the poor man a 100 – 200 % tip
But my God, it was worth it!